[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: GSBN:Re: Moisture in SBW



Danny,

Good to see that your case has sparked such enthusiastic discussion!
Glad to know we're all alive on this list.

We've had two cases here where walls were dramatically soaked, and
yet were able to dry down once the problem of water entry was solved,
even through the plaster. Of course, the plaster has to be free of
any elastomeric or other impervious coatings. And if we can dry 'em
up here in Ontario, you can probably dry 'em there.

In terms of fixing the windows, we have been using a window buck
design that can probably be retrofitted and which works very well.

Rather than affixing the rough sill of the buck by nailing it in from
the sides of the uprights (or setting it on a jack stud), we have
been cutting a groove into the sides of the uprights (with a slight
slope downwards to the outside) and then making a sill piece that is
at least 2 inches wider than the rest of the buck. The sill is cut so
it is wider than the sides of the uprights, and we often bevel the
face that will protrude from the wall. With some glue or caulking in
the groove, we get a really tight seam and a sill that protrudes well
beyond the finished plaster, and beyond the sides of the window, too.

If all those words sound confusing, I could just send you a picture!

Anyway, I think if you're doing a bit of excavation under the
windows, a handsaw or recipro saw could cut the grooves into the
existing uprights, and you'd be able to add tile or stone back on top
of the wood if desired.

Cheers,

Chris

Hello everyone;

Haven't spoken up for a while, but am following what's going on. Thanks for
all the good SB energy.

I have been called in to look at a house that I did not build, but was
showing a spot of moisture in one of the interior walls in the mud
plaster.After some investigation, we have found extensive moisture
throughout one wing of the house.This wing has a flat roof with no overhang.
The other two wings have overhangs and are testing dry. Moisture in the
former is as high as 40% in spots, but a lot of areas in the low 20% range.
The pattern seems to be mainly under the flagstone window sills (about 8"
deep and probably without any flashing under the flagstone.). The other main
factor seems to be that the entire house has elastomeric stucco. The owner
has been caulking cracks in the stucco, which appear to be caused by
moisture buildup- ie the areas along cracks tend to be very wet just below
the stucco.

The house was built with a system local to our area caled "bale block". This
a system where two 4" diameter holes are drilled through each bale prior to
it being laid into the wall. After two courses have been laid, a 4" PVC is
used as a form and a reinforced concrete column is poured through each
drilled hole, the PVC then being extracted. At every other course, a 2"
reinforced "beam" is poured the width of the bale. Thus we have a concrete
grid running vertically and horizontally throughout the wall.

The owners are committed to making the house right (and rightly so for
everyone's sake). Here are some questions under consideration:

1. We want to strip the house entirely of the elastomeric stucco, replacing
it with a cementitious color coat where the walls are dry. We are thinking
of sand blasting it off. any other ideas?

2. The stone sills run the full depth of the straw bales, with the windows
set on top of them. Is there any realistic way to make this waterproof
without tearing out the entire sill?

3. We are expecting to tear out straw, wherever it is wet. Ibelieve it will
be difficult but doable in spite of all of the concrete. I am thinking that
we can get some drying once the walls are opened up, but doubt that we can
expect to really dry more than a few inches from the surface. Can we dry
deeper than that? What parameters shoud we use in deciding how much straw to
extract? When the moisture meter hits concrete in wet areas, the concrete is
as wet or wetter than the bales. Why?

4. Once straw is pulled out, with the concrete grid still in place, what can
we possibly refill the walls with?. The moisture tends towards the outside
of the walls, so we are hoping to keep the interior surfaces intact and just
work from the outside.When refilling the walls, we want to keep moisture to
a minimum, so straw clay or other poured or puddled materials seem unlikely.
I do not see how to use straw realistically- would that be possible? We are
going into winter here.

5. I have not had a chance to investigate any possible coverage from
liability insurance the original contractor may have carried. Would we
expect this to apply? The house is about 4-5 years old.

I am sure that other questions will arise as we proceed. This a very
beautiful home, with lovely interior finishes. One problem inside is that
the clay floors are wearing poorly around furniture. They want it replaced
with colored concrete. Any ideas on this?

Look forward to a response. Anyone want to do some volunteer (or perhaps
paid) work on forensic straw bale?

Cheers

Danny Buck
Santa Fe, NM

----
GSBN is an invitation-only forum of key individuals and
representatives of regional straw construction organizations. The
costs of operating this list are underwritten by The Last Straw
Journal in exchange for use of the GSBN as an advisory board and
technical editing arm.

For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
SUBJECT line.
----

--


***************************

Chris Magwood / Camel's Back Straw Bale Construction
<a  target="_blank" href="http://www.strawhomes.ca";>http://www.strawhomes.ca</a>

Interested in bale building? Have you subscribed to
The Last Straw Journal?
You should!
 <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.thelaststraw.org";>http://www.thelaststraw.org</a>