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Re: GSBN:Loadbearing sb with moisture damage



Laura,

We made lightweight bucks out of 1x4 material which fit tightly
against the cut plaster of the opening. These were caulked into
place, and the bottom sill was made of 2x6 material and had a bevel
cut into the top and a drip kerf cut underneath. The three sides of
the buck that were 1x4 were flush to the plaster and the bottom sill
was 2 inches proud of the plaster. Wooden trim was attached to the
1x4s to cover the joint.

It seemed as good as window detail with the bucks pre-framed into the
wall. The biggest bonus of all was that we didn't develop any of the
shrinkage cracks that can typically form from the corners of the
windows to the top or bottom of the wall.

Chris


On 7-Mar-06, at 10:50 PM, Laura Bartels wrote:

Regarding cutting out windows after basecoat (or all coats) of
plaster,
I have always scratched my head over doing good moisture detailing
after
the window does go in. Any comments?
Laura

Chris Magwood wrote:


From our point of view, it took about the same amount of time to
frame everything up first and then stack and plaster compared to
stacking and plastering and cutting out later. The reason we didn't
keep doing it this way? Well, what do you do with a bunch of 3x5
foot, 21-inch thick hunks of bale wall that weigh hundreds of pounds
each?

Chris




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Chris Magwood
cmagwood@...
613-473-1718