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Re: GSBN:Re:pre-fab SB panels/rainscreens



Andre,

Thanks for the picture it makes things a lot easier. I will post a PDF and description of the pre-fab SB panels on my web-site soon.

I had a look at your picture. I would do it the same way you do although I would use a little less hefty battens for the clapboard maybe 1"x1.5" (25x38mm). We have very long screws and would screw all the way through from the batten to the posts maybe with a small spacer behind the batten and the plaster to allow the batten to dry more easily.
Rene
On Feb 5, 2007, at 15:24, André de Bouter wrote:

Hello Ren? and other 'cladders',

(I too would like more details on pre-fab panels). I advise our workshop
participants to plaster behind cladding but I worry a bit about the
cracks that appear between the plaster and the wood due to their
different expanding with humidity and temperature.
During one some brainstorming with a conventional builder we came to the
following drawing:
<a  target="_blank" href="http://www.lamaisonenpaille.com/GSBN/cladding.jpg";>http://www.lamaisonenpaille.com/GSBN/cladding.jpg</a>

The (4*20 cm) posts are in the center of the wall (very common in France)
The posts that hold the clapboard stand on the foundation and are
screwed onto the bottom plate and the top plate as well as to the posts
in the wall with the help of 'screws' that allow other screws to be
screwed into them. The idea being that this way one can minimize the
amount cracks between the plaster and the material that 'penetrates' the
plaster.
Ventilation of the cladding and plaster is assured by the screened space
between on the bottom the posts that hold the cladding  (see: Air gap)
and some sort of opening at the top. No building paper on this drawing
because I'm afraid of 'solutions' that are added to fix problems. (And
yes I agree that potassium silicate or siloxane on earth plaster should
not be presented as a solution for over exposed fa?ades)

I would very much like your comments on this strategy.

I think cladding is a simple way to protect multi story buildings. But
much more elegant I find the japanese pagode type that Matts mentioned.
I also like the Katmandu temple approach that reduces the square footage
of each story. Hereby allowing for small roofs to have their place and
function. And last, but not least, the old fashion European wattle and
daub approach. Basically the opposite strategy of Katmandu. Increasing
instead of decreasing the floor spacing on each level thus allowing for
overhang. In these modern times ("look mum, see what I can do, ...no
hands !!!....") the last approach might catch on the easiest. I'm glad I
got to suggest all this, though I'm very sure Kelly already thought of
it :-)

Looking forward to your comments on how to fix cladding.

Bye,
'screwed up' Andr?


kim thompson a ?crit :
HI Rene,

Could you say a little more about your pre-fab gable panels, or point
me to a thread or info that speaks to this. Sounds intriguing as
gables are an area that can need lots of jigging around.

I would appreciate any other thoughts from the list  on best
practices for the wood sided detailing especially vis a vis papered
or not, air spaces etc.
Also of other ingenious reuse materials that might have been
configured into rain/weather screens.

Thanks!.

kim

On 3-Feb-07, at 7:34 AM, Rene Dalmeijer wrote:

Kim and others,

I will be using clapboard on a 5 story house in Amsterdam the street
gables will be pre-fab SB panels.

In the Netherlands we often use clapboard on high or exposed SB walls
as yet we have not defined a preferred system.

Rene
On Feb 3, 2007, at 00:16, kim thompson wrote:






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