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RE: GSBN:Re:pre-fab SB panels/rainscreens



Hi Andre,

If we have the need to fit cladding to the external face of a straw bale
wall, we apply 2 coats of render prior to fitting 42x19 (2"x1") battens
to the wall. At the time of laying the bales, we insert a spiked peg
between the courses of bales. This is simply a piece of 90x19 (4x1) with
75 mm (3") nails protruding through each side of the timber. You will
need to remove a little of the straw where the peg is to be fitted,
otherwise the peg will not permit even compression of the straw. The
nails of the peg are pressed down into the bale, and then the next row
of bales is forced down onto the nails. 

This type of peg will never pull out of the wall, particularly if the
bales are laid on flat. Fit the pegs with the face of the peg approx.
level with the face of the straw. Insert a 50mm screw into the end of
the peg so that once the rendering is complete the screw can be removed
leaving a mark as to the position of the peg so that your batten for the
cladding can be fixed into the peg. You can fix the batten to the spiked
peg using either screws or nail guns, although it would be unwise to
hand nail into it as this will weaken the render in the area. 

We would fit these pegs in every second horizontal joint of bales, which
results in the 42x19 being supported every 700mm. With these fixings you
will not find it necessary to transfer the weight to the foundation,
which makes it possible to fix cladding to a gable end whilst leaving
the bale wall below exposed as a rendered wall. We also use this method
for the fixing of internal timber framed walls to straw bale walls.

I am hoping that this is relevant to your application, and addresses
your situation,

Regards

Brian Hodge
Anvill Straw Bale Building Consultants

-----Original Message-----
From: GSBN [<a  target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...";>mailto:GSBN@...] On Behalf Of Andr&eacute; de
Bouter
Sent: Tuesday, 6 February 2007 1:24 AM
To: GSBN
Subject: Re: GSBN:Re:pre-fab SB panels/rainscreens


Hello Ren? and other 'cladders',

(I too would like more details on pre-fab panels). I advise our workshop
participants to plaster behind cladding but I worry a bit about the
cracks that appear between the plaster and the wood due to their
different expanding with humidity and temperature. During one some
brainstorming with a conventional builder we came to the following
drawing: <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.lamaisonenpaille.com/GSBN/cladding.jpg";>http://www.lamaisonenpaille.com/GSBN/cladding.jpg</a>

The (4*20 cm) posts are in the center of the wall (very common in
France) The posts that hold the clapboard stand on the foundation and
are screwed onto the bottom plate and the top plate as well as to the
posts in the wall with the help of 'screws' that allow other screws to
be screwed into them. The idea being that this way one can minimize the
amount cracks between the plaster and the material that 'penetrates' the
plaster. Ventilation of the cladding and plaster is assured by the
screened space between on the bottom the posts that hold the cladding
(see: Air gap) and some sort of opening at the top. No building paper on
this drawing because I'm afraid of 'solutions' that are added to fix
problems. (And yes I agree that potassium silicate or siloxane on earth
plaster should not be presented as a solution for over exposed fa?ades)

I would very much like your comments on this strategy.

I think cladding is a simple way to protect multi story buildings. But
much more elegant I find the japanese pagode type that Matts mentioned.
I also like the Katmandu temple approach that reduces the square footage
of each story. Hereby allowing for small roofs to have their place and
function. And last, but not least, the old fashion European wattle and
daub approach. Basically the opposite strategy of Katmandu. Increasing
instead of decreasing the floor spacing on each level thus allowing for
overhang. In these modern times ("look mum, see what I can do, ...no
hands !!!....") the last approach might catch on the easiest. I'm glad I
got to suggest all this, though I'm very sure Kelly already thought of
it :-)

Looking forward to your comments on how to fix cladding.

Bye,
'screwed up' Andr?


kim thompson a ?crit :
> HI Rene,
>
> Could you say a little more about your pre-fab gable panels, or point 
> me to a thread or info that speaks to this. Sounds intriguing as 
> gables are an area that can need lots of jigging around.
>
> I would appreciate any other thoughts from the list  on best practices

> for the wood sided detailing especially vis a vis papered or not, air 
> spaces etc. Also of other ingenious reuse materials that might have 
> been configured into rain/weather screens.
>
> Thanks!.
>
> kim
>
> On 3-Feb-07, at 7:34 AM, Rene Dalmeijer wrote:
>
>> Kim and others,
>>
>> I will be using clapboard on a 5 story house in Amsterdam the street 
>> gables will be pre-fab SB panels.
>>
>> In the Netherlands we often use clapboard on high or exposed SB walls

>> as yet we have not defined a preferred system.
>>
>> Rene
>> On Feb 3, 2007, at 00:16, kim thompson wrote:
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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