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RE: GSBN:Bale to frame connection and frame height for infill construction
- To: "'GSBN'" GSBN@...
- Subject: RE: GSBN:Bale to frame connection and frame height for infill construction
- From: "Rikki Nitzkin" rikkinitzkin@...
- Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:33:55 +0100
- Reply-to: "GSBN" GSBN@...
- Sender: "GSBN" GSBN@...
This list does not allow us to attach images to the emails.
Could you please send me a copy of this drawing as well? Between
differences in vocabulary and being a visual learner all these verbal
descriptions are hard for me (and I think those on the list who speak
English not so well) somewhat confusing. An image is worth a thousand
Aul?s, Lleida, Espa?a
(0034)657 33 51 62
www.casasdepaja.com (Red de Construcci?n con Balas de Paja)
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: GSBN [<a target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...">mailto:GSBN@...] En nombre de Brian Hodge -
> Enviado el: mi?rcoles, 28 de febrero de 2007 7:00
> Para: 'GSBN'
> Asunto: RE: GSBN:Bale to frame connection and frame height for infill
> Hi Laura,
> Thanks for your email regarding the height of the timber structure and
> frame to bale connection
> With infill we need the ring beam to be higher than the finished height
> of the straw bale wall so that the top boxing does not get in the way of
> the connection of the rafters or trusses to the ring beam. We can
> achieve 7% compression with the polyester strapping with good tight
> bales, so if you establish the height of your straw bale wall with the
> bales relaxed and then deduct 5% you will end up with the top of the
> posts and ring beam protruding above the top boxing on the straw bale
> wall. The connection of the bales to the frame is done by inserting
> noggings between the rafters over the top of the top boxing. These
> infill blocks would extend from the top boxing to the top of the rafter,
> which is secured to the top boxing with 3" nails. It can either be fixed
> to the front of the top boxing or skew nailed to the top of the top
> boxing. I have attached a copy of the drawing from my book, which I
> trust will help to clarify my explanation.
> Once the infill noggings are fixed in place, the roof sarking would be
> laid over the top of the rafters and a roof batten fixed directly over
> the top of the infill noggings. The sarking should extend beyond the
> outer edge of the straw bale wall, so that any condensation can drop
> clearly to the outside of the building. We would normally extend the
> sarking to the gutter. By fitting the roof batten over the infill block
> you will prevent vermin entering the roof cavity.
> When rendering, we would cover the top boxing and exposed top of the
> bale with render. The roof/ceiling insulation can then be positioned so
> as to bridge the gap between the roof and wall top, so as to avoid a
> thermal bridge.
> I trust this helps, and look forward to hearing from you again shortly.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GSBN [<a target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...">mailto:GSBN@...] On Behalf Of Laura
> Sent: Wednesday, 28 February 2007 6:46 AM
> To: GSBN
> Subject: Re: GSBN:Compression for infill
> I apologize to have begun these questions about compression and while
> traveling the rest of the week, found I had no email service. You all
> may have thought I just dropped off the face of the earth, but just
> found myself in the snow dusted canyons of Utah while I did some work
> there. Thank you all for responding. I have heard now of a variety of
> systems, not all of which I have full details on, but it's starting to
> be an interesting collection. I do have a few q's... Brian, how do you
> deal with post height and connection with the compression using the box
> beam approach? And John, in the method below for your rare infill
> projects, are you compressing with your all thread approach? What does
> the compression method attach to? S'ppose any other photos might answer
> much. Catherine, if you do get Brian's book in for sale, would you post
> a notice for us? Again, thanks all for your thoughts and any follow up
> photos. Laura
> John Glassford wrote:
> > G ' day Bill and Rikki
> > The hole at the top or gap is dealt with in two or more ways depending
> > on the deisgn of the building. In the case of the South Coat House
> > the architect designed the walls to fit below double glazed windows on
> > a rake. This worked well except for the fact that we had to make sure
> > we achieved an exact height all round of 2.405 metres. We had a
> > tolerance of 5mm. The rods achieved this and we got a 100mm
> > compression from a 7 bale high wall. We were also within 5 mm all
> > round after compression.
> > Nikki I will send you some photos off list which will help explain.
> > The other way is to build the wall to 250mm below the height of the
> > top plate on the in-fill and then pre-compress 100mm or whatever the
> > test wall showed prior to building, then you have a gap or hole at the
> > top of 350mm which will take one bale usually forced in for a tight
> > fit above the straw bale wall. This method has worked well for us
> > when we do in-fill which is rare, as we usually build load bearing
> > homes.
> > Kind regards
> > John Glassford
> > Huff 'n' Puff Constructions
> > <a target="_blank" href="http://www.glassford.com.au/">http://www.glassford.com.au/</a>
> > Mount Kilimanjaro Climb 28/8/07 <a target="_blank" href="http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/">http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/</a>
> > 61 2 6927 6027
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