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Re: GSBN:"squaring" & Thermal dipping



Yet a couple more methods of squaring ends for a flat fit;

Curtis Scheib, who lives here in Colorado, showed me his method; he cuts
about a 9 inch long 2x6 and wraps it with expanded metal lath and uses it
as a sander on both ends...squares them up rather well in short order.
Works on beer bellies too, a bit more messy. I showed this to some folks at
a work party and the next weekend when I returned they had several
variations on this system; they fashioned expanded metal lath to the bottom
of a Darby (3-4 foot long wood float with double handles) and rubbed the
ends or just wrap any dimension of lumber that comfortably fits the users
hand with the lath and fasten with staples. I would say that 15 seconds or
less of some vigorous rub-a-dub on each end is all it takes.

I've seen others here just use a chainsaw to cut along the end twine for
square ends. This scares me that you could, and sometimes do, cut the twine
and lose the bale. Those who use this method on a regular basis have gotten
quite good, cut no twine and have bale ends that fit together like bales
stacked on edge, almost.

On the dipping issue...has anyone ever used one of the small hand held
sprayers, we call them tirolessa sprayers. I've never 'dipped' but the
results sound similar to this sprayer and saves lifting the heavy bales
(important for anyone over a certain age). You simply mix your clay rich
slip mix, pour some into a wheelbarrow or bucket, dip some mix into the
small hopper of the hand held sprayer and blast it onto the bales. With two
worker types mixing and feeding the one operator of the sprayer you can
cover a lot of wall in a day. One thing I've never done though is the
'whacking the plank' method after spraying for straightening and compacting
Andy Horn speaks of. We generally let the pressure of the air blasting the
slip onto the bales dry as is, which gives the scratch coat a good bonding
surface. This method seems to work rather well/simply but I will try the
plank whack and trowel.

The tirolessa sprayer (weapon of mass construction) can be found at
<a  target="_blank" href="http://www.northcoast.com/~tms/tiro.htm";>http://www.northcoast.com/~tms/tiro.htm</a> for $215 US. Or, throw in your
handy TLS CD and see how to make your own small sprayer, instructions in
TLS 39, pages. 17 &amp; 18.

Mark 'been quiet until today' Schueneman
Colorado Straw Bale Association
303-444-6027 hm./of.
303-591-9841 cell



> [Original Message]
> From: Rene Dalmeijer rene.dalmeijer@...
> To: GSBN GSBN@...
> Date: 5/25/2007 10:40:26 AM
> Subject: Re: GSBN:"squaring" round corners
>
> Rikki,
>
> I first saw redistribution of the rounded bale end doen bij Lars Keller
> at the ISBBC in Australie. I can't remember his exact technique based
> on his method though I developed a technique for really tight bales
> using a claw hammer. You ram the claw of the hammer in the "belly" thus
> yanking a wad of straw downwards roll the bale over to the other side
> and repeat the procedure this works really fast and is very effective
> in getting a square bale. It does not work for floppy bales.
>
> Rene
> On May 25, 2007, at 13:07, Rikki Nitzkin wrote:
>
> > Barbara Jones taught me a method which makes a huge difference in
> > getting a
> > tight fit between bales:
> >
> > Before placing the bale, you take the "belly" part at the end and with
> > a
> > pulling/twisting/pushing motion re-distribute the straw up and down
> > the end
> > of the bale.  This gives you a relatively flat surface which makes a
> > tighter
> > fit and a lot less stuffing.
> >
> > Rikki Nitzkin
> > Aul&#xE1;s, Lleida, Espa&#xF1;a
> > rikkinitzkin@...
> > (0034)657 33 51 62
> > www.casasdepaja.com (Red de Construcci&#xF3;n con Balas de Paja)
> >
> >
> >> -----Mensaje original-----
> >> De: GSBN [<a  target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...";>mailto:GSBN@...] En nombre de Andr&#xE9; de
> >> Bouter
> >> Enviado el: viernes, 25 de mayo de 2007 8:17
> >> Para: GSBN
> >> Asunto: Re: GSBN:Re Thermal Properties of Straw Bale Walls
> >>
> >> During a BWB workshop Ari Gore shared yet another little improvement
> >> for
> >> getting rid of the holes between the bales layed flat as the bales
> >> tend
> >> to have rounded corners on the up- and bottom side. Simply lay a
> >> handful
> >> of straw on the joints between the bales before you place the next
> >> row.
> >>
> >>  ______ * _____ * _____ * _____  * _____
> >> |______ ||______ ||______ ||______ ||______ |
> >>
> >>
> >> Also place a handful next to the bale before placing the next one.
> >>
> >> |______ |
> >>                *
> >>
> >> A lot easier than pushing the straw (or straw-clay) in once the wall
> >> is
> >> up.
> >>
> >> And you'll notice that bales on edge (or on end for that matter)
> >> match
> >> much better (the rounded corners are now on the surface and easily
> >> plastered.
> >>
> >> Bye,
> >> Andr&#xE9;
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> billc a &#xE9;crit :
> >>> At 8:08 AM +1000 5/25/07, John Glassford wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> We prefer to build them in the raw and do a solid pre-compression
> >>>> and
> >>>> then fill any gaps with a cob mix.
> >>>
> >>> Since it can be difficult to do gap-filling in the first place, would
> >>> it make better sense to stuff and *then* compress, allowing the straw
> >>> to mold into the cob?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> Bill Christensen
> >>> billc@...
> >>>
> >>> Green Building Professionals Directory:
> >>> <<a  target="_blank" href="http://directory.sustainablesources.com";>http://directory.sustainablesources.com</a>>
> >>> Sustainable Building Calendar:
> >>> <<a  target="_blank" href="http://SustainableSources.com/calendar/";>http://SustainableSources.com/calendar/</a>>
> >>> Green Real Estate: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://SustainableSources.com/realestate/";>http://SustainableSources.com/realestate/</a>>
> >>> Straw Bale Registry: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://sbregistry.sustainablesources.com/";>http://sbregistry.sustainablesources.com/</a>>
> >>> Books/videos/software: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://bookstore.sustainablesources.com/";>http://bookstore.sustainablesources.com/</a>>
> >>> ----
> >>> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> >>> list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> >>> SUBJECT line.  ----
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> John Glassford a &#xE9;crit :
> >>> Good idea Bill and in effect that what happens but with good
> >>> preparation of each bale and good bales in the first place this is
> >>> not
> >>> such a problem gaps that is.  Also the pre-compression using all
> >>> thread as per Steens or the hybrid method seen here is the way to go:
> >>>
> >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.glassford.com.au/Custom_meredith.htm";>http://www.glassford.com.au/Custom_meredith.htm</a>
> >>>
> >>> The rods on each side of the wall every 1.8 metres work a treat and
> >>> are much easer and stronger than any other method that I have used
> >>> including fencing wire, gripples and straps of all types.
> >>>
> >>> Just my two bobs worth mate.
> >>>
> >>> Kind regards
> >>> El Lupo
> >>> Huff 'n' Puff Constructions
> >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.glassford.com.au/";>http://www.glassford.com.au/</a>
> >>> Mount Kilimanjaro Climb 28/8/07
> >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/";>http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/</a>
> >>> 61 2 6927 6027
> >>> ----
> >>> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> >>> list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> >>> SUBJECT line.  ----
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >> ----
> >> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> >> list,
> >> send email to GSBN@...HELP in the SUBJECT
> >> line.
> >> ----
> >
> > ----
> > For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> > list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> > SUBJECT line.
> > ----
> >
>

>