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GSBN:dipping bales and plank whacking



Further on bale dipping / plank whacking or forming:

It is true Rikki, much of the pinning seems pretty redundant with a dipping
process. However, in our sever Cape Storms, I'm leaning (no pun intended) to
doing more horizontal pinning and less vertical pinning. I've long since
bothered about doing any bottom pinning.

With the "whacking with a plank method" ....just be careful not to whack on
areas that have started to dry out...so it needs to be applied in good
time....and worked like cob...helping to compact and flatten the surface.
 
I have also found that if you want straighter walls ...2 planks to guide the
external corner walls, work wonders for the corner profile of the building.
Afterward you can take down the guides once the wall is up, to work the
corners with a cobbing stick around the corners of the walls and to round
off and strengthen. 

Andy

ECO DESIGN
Architects & Consultants
A. R. HORN B.A.S. (UCT), B.Arch (UCT), Pr.Arch (SACAP),  MIA, CIA
Telephone: 021 462 1614, Fax: 021 461 3198
Cel: 082 67 62110
4th Flr, The Armoury
160 Sir Lowry Rd
CAPE TOWN
7925
web site: www.ecodesignarchitects.co.za
email: andy@...

-----Original Message-----
From: GSBN [<a  target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...";>mailto:GSBN@...] On Behalf Of Rikki Nitzkin
Sent: 01 June 2007 06:28 PM
To: 'GSBN'
Subject: RE: GSBN:"squaring" &amp; Thermal dipping

I think the most important thing is to get the slip onto and into the bale
BEFORE compression because it is easier to penetrate.  Also having the clay
on before you continue with the next row of bales stabilizes the wall enough
that almost no pinning (external or internal) is necessary.  

Rikki Nitzkin
Aul?s, Lleida, Espa?a
rikkinitzkin@...
(0034)657 33 51 62 
www.casasdepaja.com (Red de Construcci?n con Balas de Paja)
 
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: GSBN [<a  target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...";>mailto:GSBN@...] En nombre de Mark Schueneman
> Enviado el: s?bado, 26 de mayo de 2007 2:30
> Para: GSBN
> Asunto: Re: GSBN:"squaring" &amp; Thermal dipping
> 
> Yet a couple more methods of squaring ends for a flat fit;
> 
> Curtis Scheib, who lives here in Colorado, showed me his method; he cuts
> about a 9 inch long 2x6 and wraps it with expanded metal lath and uses it
> as a sander on both ends...squares them up rather well in short order.
> Works on beer bellies too, a bit more messy. I showed this to some folks
> at
> a work party and the next weekend when I returned they had several
> variations on this system; they fashioned expanded metal lath to the
> bottom
> of a Darby (3-4 foot long wood float with double handles) and rubbed the
> ends or just wrap any dimension of lumber that comfortably fits the users
> hand with the lath and fasten with staples. I would say that 15 seconds or
> less of some vigorous rub-a-dub on each end is all it takes.
> 
> I've seen others here just use a chainsaw to cut along the end twine for
> square ends. This scares me that you could, and sometimes do, cut the
> twine
> and lose the bale. Those who use this method on a regular basis have
> gotten
> quite good, cut no twine and have bale ends that fit together like bales
> stacked on edge, almost.
> 
> On the dipping issue...has anyone ever used one of the small hand held
> sprayers, we call them tirolessa sprayers. I've never 'dipped' but the
> results sound similar to this sprayer and saves lifting the heavy bales
> (important for anyone over a certain age). You simply mix your clay rich
> slip mix, pour some into a wheelbarrow or bucket, dip some mix into the
> small hopper of the hand held sprayer and blast it onto the bales. With
> two
> worker types mixing and feeding the one operator of the sprayer you can
> cover a lot of wall in a day. One thing I've never done though is the
> 'whacking the plank' method after spraying for straightening and
> compacting
> Andy Horn speaks of. We generally let the pressure of the air blasting the
> slip onto the bales dry as is, which gives the scratch coat a good bonding
> surface. This method seems to work rather well/simply but I will try the
> plank whack and trowel.
> 
> The tirolessa sprayer (weapon of mass construction) can be found at
> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.northcoast.com/~tms/tiro.htm";>http://www.northcoast.com/~tms/tiro.htm</a> for $215 US. Or, throw in your
> handy TLS CD and see how to make your own small sprayer, instructions in
> TLS 39, pages. 17 &amp; 18.
> 
> Mark 'been quiet until today' Schueneman
> Colorado Straw Bale Association
> 303-444-6027 hm./of.
> 303-591-9841 cell
> 
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Rene Dalmeijer rene.dalmeijer@...
> > To: GSBN GSBN@...
> > Date: 5/25/2007 10:40:26 AM
> > Subject: Re: GSBN:"squaring" round corners
> >
> > Rikki,
> >
> > I first saw redistribution of the rounded bale end doen bij Lars Keller
> > at the ISBBC in Australie. I can't remember his exact technique based
> > on his method though I developed a technique for really tight bales
> > using a claw hammer. You ram the claw of the hammer in the "belly" thus
> > yanking a wad of straw downwards roll the bale over to the other side
> > and repeat the procedure this works really fast and is very effective
> > in getting a square bale. It does not work for floppy bales.
> >
> > Rene
> > On May 25, 2007, at 13:07, Rikki Nitzkin wrote:
> >
> > > Barbara Jones taught me a method which makes a huge difference in
> > > getting a
> > > tight fit between bales:
> > >
> > > Before placing the bale, you take the "belly" part at the end and with
> > > a
> > > pulling/twisting/pushing motion re-distribute the straw up and down
> > > the end
> > > of the bale.  This gives you a relatively flat surface which makes a
> > > tighter
> > > fit and a lot less stuffing.
> > >
> > > Rikki Nitzkin
> > > Aul?s, Lleida, Espa?a
> > > rikkinitzkin@...
> > > (0034)657 33 51 62
> > > www.casasdepaja.com (Red de Construcci?n con Balas de Paja)
> > >
> > >
> > >> -----Mensaje original-----
> > >> De: GSBN [<a  target="_blank" href="mailto:GSBN@...";>mailto:GSBN@...] En nombre de Andr&eacute; de
> > >> Bouter
> > >> Enviado el: viernes, 25 de mayo de 2007 8:17
> > >> Para: GSBN
> > >> Asunto: Re: GSBN:Re Thermal Properties of Straw Bale Walls
> > >>
> > >> During a BWB workshop Ari Gore shared yet another little improvement
> > >> for
> > >> getting rid of the holes between the bales layed flat as the bales
> > >> tend
> > >> to have rounded corners on the up- and bottom side. Simply lay a
> > >> handful
> > >> of straw on the joints between the bales before you place the next
> > >> row.
> > >>
> > >>  ______ * _____ * _____ * _____  * _____
> > >> |______ ||______ ||______ ||______ ||______ |
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Also place a handful next to the bale before placing the next one.
> > >>
> > >> |______ |
> > >>                *
> > >>
> > >> A lot easier than pushing the straw (or straw-clay) in once the wall
> > >> is
> > >> up.
> > >>
> > >> And you'll notice that bales on edge (or on end for that matter)
> > >> match
> > >> much better (the rounded corners are now on the surface and easily
> > >> plastered.
> > >>
> > >> Bye,
> > >> Andr?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> billc a ?crit :
> > >>> At 8:08 AM +1000 5/25/07, John Glassford wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> We prefer to build them in the raw and do a solid pre-compression
> > >>>> and
> > >>>> then fill any gaps with a cob mix.
> > >>>
> > >>> Since it can be difficult to do gap-filling in the first place,
> would
> > >>> it make better sense to stuff and *then* compress, allowing the
> straw
> > >>> to mold into the cob?
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> --
> > >>> Bill Christensen
> > >>> billc@...
> > >>>
> > >>> Green Building Professionals Directory:
> > >>> <<a  target="_blank" href="http://directory.sustainablesources.com";>http://directory.sustainablesources.com</a>>
> > >>> Sustainable Building Calendar:
> > >>> <<a  target="_blank" href="http://SustainableSources.com/calendar/";>http://SustainableSources.com/calendar/</a>>
> > >>> Green Real Estate: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://SustainableSources.com/realestate/";>http://SustainableSources.com/realestate/</a>>
> > >>> Straw Bale Registry: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://sbregistry.sustainablesources.com/";>http://sbregistry.sustainablesources.com/</a>>
> > >>> Books/videos/software: <<a  target="_blank" href="http://bookstore.sustainablesources.com/";>http://bookstore.sustainablesources.com/</a>>
> > >>> ----
> > >>> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> > >>> list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> > >>> SUBJECT line.  ----
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> John Glassford a ?crit :
> > >>> Good idea Bill and in effect that what happens but with good
> > >>> preparation of each bale and good bales in the first place this is
> > >>> not
> > >>> such a problem gaps that is.  Also the pre-compression using all
> > >>> thread as per Steens or the hybrid method seen here is the way to
> go:
> > >>>
> > >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.glassford.com.au/Custom_meredith.htm";>http://www.glassford.com.au/Custom_meredith.htm</a>
> > >>>
> > >>> The rods on each side of the wall every 1.8 metres work a treat and
> > >>> are much easer and stronger than any other method that I have used
> > >>> including fencing wire, gripples and straps of all types.
> > >>>
> > >>> Just my two bobs worth mate.
> > >>>
> > >>> Kind regards
> > >>> El Lupo
> > >>> Huff 'n' Puff Constructions
> > >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.glassford.com.au/";>http://www.glassford.com.au/</a>
> > >>> Mount Kilimanjaro Climb 28/8/07
> > >>> <a  target="_blank" href="http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/";>http://www.coolamonrotary.com/kili/</a>
> > >>> 61 2 6927 6027
> > >>> ----
> > >>> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> > >>> list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> > >>> SUBJECT line.  ----
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >> ----
> > >> For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> > >> list,
> > >> send email to GSBN@...HELP in the SUBJECT
> > >> line.
> > >> ----
> > >
> > > ----
> > > For instructions on joining, leaving, or otherwise using the GSBN
> > > list, send email to GSBN@...HELP in the
> > > SUBJECT line.
> > > ----
> > >
> >
> > ----
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> send email to GSBN@...HELP in the SUBJECT line.
> > ----
> >
> 
> 





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